The regular method of completing masonry walls, and something still favoured by a lot of plasterers, wet plastering needs employing either a cement-based render or a gypsum backing which is trowelled directly on the bricks or blocks.Initially, a scratch coat is put on, alternatively referred to as a ‘key’ coat. This is basically the base coat which is gently scratched whilst the plaster remains to be wet in order to create a very good key for the second layer of plaster — the ‘skim’ coat — to bond to.
Together with cement-based and gypsum plasters, lime and clay plasters are favoured by most traditionalists and others wanting a wall that may breathe. Lime and clay plasters are higher priced than ‘conventional’ wall surface finishes and it’s also best if you just use a plasterer with familiarity with such materials.
Something to know though: if you are planning on utilizing the manner of wet plaster on an exterior wall, do understand that you won’t be capable of add insulation as you’re able to with plasterboard — except in situations where you will be content to work with external insulation on your home. So, if you have got solid brick walls — rather than cavity walls — you should consider the impact that too little insulation can have.
Gives an even, hardwearing finish
Suits traditional properties perfectly
Uncomplicated to put on around tricky areas as an illustration windows and doors
Offers outstanding airtightness and soundproofing
Cannot add insulation internally behind this kind of plaster
Takes more hours to dry in comparison to many other techniques
Hairline cracking may appear
High skill level is important — an experienced plaster is frequently hard to encounter and can frequently require more just for this particular style of work.
Plasterboard with Skim Coat
You will find a number of regular board thicknesses of plasterboard — 9.5mm for 400mm spacings and 12.5mm for 600mm. Additionally, there are several various methods wherein plasterboard might be fixed to your wall: ‘dot and dab’ or ‘board on dabs’, and plasterboard which is screwed to timber battens fixed towards the wall.
With dot and dab, sheets of plasterboard are stuck either to brickwork or blockwork walls using dabs of adhesive and leaving simply a small cavity between plasterboard and also the wall. While using batten method — perfect for all those planning to add insulation to the solid wall — timber battens, generally measuring 38mm wide together with a depth to match the thickness of insulation you are choosing between the two, are screwed on the wall.
Rigid board PIR (polyisocyanurate) insulation is inserted between battens just before the plasterboard is set within the top. A vapour control layer is additionally needed in the event of solid walls.
Finally, the joints in between the boards are covered with scrim tape — typically by means of a self-adhesive tape — before a skim layer of plaster is trowelled on the plasterboard.
Hairline cracks — which can be linked to wet plaster — are improbable
Quicker drying out time
Possible to handle with a DIY basis
Insulation is often fitted behind plasterboard